There is exactly one table and it seats exactly eighteen, which is the largest number of people who can still hold a single conversation. The kitchen is open, the menu is short, and the seating plan is the most carefully designed object in the building.

The Long Table hosts the club’s suppers, member-led dinners and the occasional breakfast that runs long. On quieter nights it belongs to whoever books it — the only house rule is that a dinner here has a guest list, not an audience.